In the Fall of 2026, Belgian designer Julie Kegels presented a captivating collection that delved into the depths of our modern obsession with image control. This thought-provoking showcase, titled "Face Value," was a bold exploration of authenticity and its shadows in the age of hyper-visibility.
Kegels' runway was a stage for slow, deliberate walks, a rare sight in an era where social media moments reign supreme. The models' deliberate pace forced the audience's attention onto the intricate construction of the garments, a refreshing change from the typical fast-paced fashion shows.
Inspired by Andy Warhol's concept of "aura" and the vibrant long-exposure portraits of Korean artist Kyungwoo Chun, the collection reflected on the contrast between appearance and reality. It was a cerebral journey, presenting an intriguing and wearable fashion line.
The garments themselves were a study in contrast and transformation. Capes gracefully streamed from shoulders, attaching discreetly at the ankles, creating a ghostly, billowing silhouette. Jackets slipped off shoulders but were reimagined as dresses, while pajama tops were elevated to gown-like proportions. A simple white button-down transformed into a cape, and a skirt appeared to unravel at the waist, only to drape dramatically to the side.
To achieve these unique shapes, Kegels employed a clever technique. She photographed her garments in her Antwerp atelier, lit to create dramatic shadows, and then worked with these distorted patterns to craft new, innovative forms.
In another intriguing twist, Kegels experimented with what she termed "forced tailoring." Sleeves were cut to push arms forward with military precision, creating a more assertive stance. Shrunken pullovers were sliced open at the back of the shoulders, revealing fabric that popped out like colorful wings.
"The aura is a shield," Kegels explained backstage. "Our appearance may not always reflect our true selves. The Julie Kegels woman strives for control, yet understands the inherent imperfection of this pursuit."
Exposed seams and unfinished edges further emphasized the theme of contrast. Interestingly, when Kegels noticed that the intended jarring, jagged hats resembled the cute headgear of the cartoon bird Calimero, she embraced the irony, adding more childlike elements, such as cozy baby blankets that could be worn as wrap skirts.
As Warhol once said, our "aura" may fade with a single word, but in Kegels' skilled hands, the right outfit can preserve that image, if only for a little while longer.
This collection is a testament to the power of fashion to challenge, inspire, and, most importantly, to tell a story.
